Now that the engine and gearbox are in it is time to fit the primaries but before that the alternator and starter motor need to be re-installed.

Starter Motor: Very easy, goes straight in with two cap-head bolts

Alternator: This was a lot harder since there is not much room in the engine bay. After a couple of attempts I found the best method was to detach the lower alternator mount from the alternator and loosely attach it to the engine block first. The top bolt for the alternator is next and loosely fitted to give some wiggle room. The bottom bolt for the alternator can now be started and the whole lot gradually tightened up, starting with the bottom alternator mounting bracket bolt as this is the hardest to reach. After 30 minutes of gradual tightening the bottom bolt and bracket were fixed in place leaving an easy job of tightening the top bolt.

Plenum chamber: The plenum chamber / throttle body assembly was removed as part of the preparations for installing the engine. This will be left off until all the engine bay plumbing is finished.

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Primaries: Installation of the exhaust primaries begins with the removal of the gasket and masking tape used to seal the exhaust ports.

It is important that the primaries are installed before the dry sump tank is fitted as you will need the space in order to manouvre primary #4 into position.

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There are four primaries and the recommended installation sequence is from rear to front. Before starting I used some auto masking tape to protect the hole in body skin. Starting from within the engine bay each primary is rotated and manouvered into place taking care not to ding anything in the process. Obviously the steel gasket must be fitted between the primaries and the engine block but as this is one piece it is easily held in place by primary #1 bolts. The bolts are left finger tight for the moment and will be torqued up when I fit the collector as a bit of wiggle room will be necessary at that stage.